Things I’m Loving: BIG Swells, Lyall Bay, Surfers In Action!

The ‘super moon’ has been tossing up some amazing swells in Lyall Bay, Wellington, this week. The temperature of the water, even in summer, takes a little getting used to, so right now – as the Antarctic starts to send us the off shoot of its big freeze – it takes some serious stamina, heavy duty clobber (booties and all), and determination, to catch a ride.

My unschooler daughter had a wild glint in her eye as we watched the action (what AM I going to do with her, hee, hee!).

I’m not a surfer (just done a bit of wind-surfing – not in wild Welly winds though – tame stuff, back in the UK and France, mostly on inland lakes and sheltered spots around the south coast of England and the coast of Brittany), but I’ve been out on my boogie board in the Wellington surf (fair weather only!) and on the paddle board.

I know what it feels like to brace the elements (not quite this wild, but nevertheless…), I know the thrill, the feeling of being on the edge, being one with the water and trying to harness the power of it to my favour.

These awesome dudes (sorry, couldn’t think of a better word), have guts, determination, nerves of steel (and flexible employees or self-employed – judging by the number of builder, plumber, electrician vans parked up).

The way they carve the water to catch a ride is like watching salmon swimming upstream (another poor pun… it’s late, sorry – the children were late to bed… I’ll stop with the excuses already) – utterly incredible.

When it comes to watching surfing I could happily while away hours – either facing the bracing conditions – or rugged up in the car with a steaming coffee.

My adrenaline was pumping just watching. I can only imagine how these surf lovers must feel – their veins must be pumping with some huge natural high after riding waves like these!